China 2009 McKee Trip

HOME!

2009-09-30T14:53:00.000-04:00

Wednesday, Los Altos, California

Ah, good night’s sleep, what a wonder!

Soft wonderful bed last night, clean air, clear sky, fresh fruit you can eat without worrying, fresh garden-grown tomatoes, good supper last night (home cooked), relaxing surroundings.

It was a wonderful trip, but always good to get back to your home country. Love the US.

Friday we head back to Tampa, then Apollo Beach and our own house. Grace says for months.

Tuesday, September 29--Going Home!

2009-09-30T14:50:00.000-04:00

Tuesday--Going home

Got up early Tuesday; think both of us were ready and somewhat excited. Not rah-rah excited, but ready and past ready to get home. It is rainy and overcast outside, National Day is approaching (Everything is going to shut down for several days.), and we are dog tired.

We packed yesterday as it had been raining. Rain again today, that typhoon is getting closer--the cloud movement out our window shows us that. We are both dressed and packed when we get our wake-up call at 7:30.

Grace goes downstairs at 8:15 to checkout and wait for the bus to the airport at 9:00. I stay a little longer to wait for the bell hop to come for the bags. Boy, are the bags heavy; too heavy I am afraid. But Grace’s is not as heavy as mine, so just maybe we will get through. Wonder if they go on individual bag weight or if they average? We’ll soon find out. Used to be you were allowed one bag to Hong Kong, but two bags when leaving. I have not asked this time.

Bus is delayed, and the concierge is worried. He is making phone calls and looks agitated. Not sure what all that means, but if he is worried, that is not comforting to us. It’s 9:10 and the bus shows up. The driver is 10 minuets late, seems in a hurry. We are his last stop, and he assures us all in rapid-fire multiple languages that he will have us at the airport in 40 minutes. He does, and all is well. We are the second stop and start talking to a young man from Atlanta who does importing and sourcing out of China. He says he has flown to China 19 times since 2007, and I make the comment that is not much fun. He agrees, but it is part of his job. We kind of follow him to United and talk while in line.

At check-in we are overweight. I am 5 kilos over, about 10 pounds, but Grace is 3 kilos under. So we get down on the ground and pass several things from my suitcase to hers and move some things into my backpack. She tells us we can check two bags each, so I am thinking maybe to check my backpack, but it has my computer and some papers I don’t wish to be separated from. Back on the scale, and she grimaces when I put Grace’s on the scale, but then says, “Let’s pretend I didn’t see that.” And I put mine up. Mine is OK now, so I decide not to check my backpack. Grace thinks I am silly to carry such a load but it is a habit of mine.

Security is a breeze, I do not set off any bells, and the bags pass too. Immigration is just a formality and we go towards the gate. Luckily we have 1 ½ hours to flight time, so we stop for a meal. They have Burger King, Ben and Jerry’s, Popeye’s Fried Chicken, Starbuck’s and other western fast food places in addition to several Japanese and Chinese chains. We have hot fried chicken and the fixings at Popeye’s.

Everything in this airport that we see is very high end. No, not the food stands, but everything else. We had planned on spending our last $300.00 HKD here, but everything is way up in the $2000.00 plus range, luxury items all. Saw one coat, forget the brand, but one of those famous designer brands, that was priced at $156,000.00 HKD. In an airport? Gees!

Get to the gate in plenty of time, but the flight is delayed: “mechanical problem.” Delayed time approaches and they announce a further two-hour delay, same reason. Most passengers head back towards the terminal from where they came but Grace and I stay put. We have had enough walking. But have to say I really, really, want them to fix any mechanical problem while we are still on the ground rather than at 30,000 feet.

Close to 2:00 pm (original flight departure time was 11:40 am) the flight crew starts boarding, so I assume we are headed out. Every one of the crew that goes to the plane sets off the alarm: very reassuring.

We board, but do not get away from the gate. Plane is almost full, and then the captain or someone comes on and says there is a further delay due to congestion. The sky is quickly getting more ominous, even thought the typhoon is several hundreds of miles away. I want to get airborne. We pull away from the gate at 2:30, but then sit some more. Another announcement that we are delayed another 30 minutes, tower congestion. Finally get off around 3:00, so we are 3 + hours late getting off, for a 12hr 45min flight.

Hum, bus late, plane late, bad karma?

Flight is uneventful, except neither Grace nor I can sleep. We try, but it just does not happen. They show four movies, but we saw two of them coming over so they do not help pass the time much either. Usually they show different movies each way, and they change on the month, but it is still September. Grace has a book she got in Hong Kong and that helps her, but for some reason, I have not brought anything to read. Strange, as I almost always have something.

Arrival is smooth. We get in about 2:00 pm, I might add the same day we leave, which always confuses me. Traveling back in time, or getting someplace when you leave, is unsettling and of course makes you wonder if time travel really is possible.

Immigration goes well, but getting our bags proves disquieting. I see both bags come up from downstairs, but then mine is the only one going around the carousel. After two trips around, I suggest Grace walk over to the exit and kind of eyeball those leaving in case someone has gotten hers by mistake. As they say, lots of black suitcases look similar. I keep watch on the carousel. She comes back after a while, but saw no one, so I suggest she walk around the carousel and see if it is possibly on someone’s cart. About then a young lady behind me lets out a quiet scream. One of the hounds that sniffs for contraband has just sniffed her leg and startled her. Grace comes back several minutes later with her bag, Seems it had been going round and round the whole time. I was just missing it.

Loaded up we head for customs. Guy looks at our declaration and tells us to go left. We do, but then notice it is for connecting passengers, so we continue until we can figure out which direction to go to get out. Turns out we escape going through customs altogether. That is OK, we have nothing to pay duty on, and of course we look like upstanding and honest American citizens. (Had to throw that one in.)

Take the Airtrain over to the rental car garage and pick up a Dodge Caliper for three days. Head down to my brother’s home in Los Altos.

The air is clean and clear, the sun is shinning, it is cool, but not cold. We are back and it feels oh so good.

Good trip.

Jumbo Floating Restaurant--You Gotta Go!

2009-09-30T13:46:00.001-04:00

Monday evening--Hong Kong

It is raining when we get into the taxi for Jumbo. Not hard, and since it has been all day, everything is wet. Our driver may be new to his profession, or he seems to be. The first few turns, we drift through them. That means slide, not sideways, but close. Either he is new, or his tires have absolutely no traction. Either way, I am concerned, but say nothing.

After the first few slides, he drives very carefully, and we arrive at Jumbo with no further problems. But quite a drive--way across town. Thankfully it is rush hour and we really can’t go very fast.

Grace is amazed at what she sees. We approach the landing which is certainly lit up. At the landing, we get onto a smaller boat to take us to the bigger boat, Jumbo. Unfortunately, Jumbo is not lit up yet, just the entrance. But still impressive. A three-minute ride later, we disembark and enter the restaurant. We are sent upstairs, and to the VIP room. Not sure I like this; they are all western tables, set for four. But the décor is magnificent, and Grace likes it. We have a table at the window facing the landing we came from.

I get a noodle dish with garlic and abalone sauce, very mild, but they mix and cook it at the table which is a nice show. Grace gets a shrimp dish with pumpkin, onions, and beef knuckles. It is better and very hot, heat hot. We also order a vegetable plate, green beans with two different kinds of fungus, or mushrooms. Water to drink. The food is very good, very, but not quite as spicy as we like. But then Cantonese cuisine is not known for its spiciness. It does have a reputation, but I will save that for another blog, another day.

Back downstairs and onto the smaller boat and back to the landing. It is a slow night what with the rain, and we are a bit concerned about getting a taxi. Maybe ten minutes of waiting and the attendant says he will run down to the main cross street and see if he can get one. No sooner does he get out his umbrella and start than one pulls up.

This guy is not cautious at all. He turns out to be a real speed demon, and lucky for us, his tires do a good job, not slipping once. Grace refers to him as “Mr. Fung’s Wild Ride” and says he should work at the new Disneyland here. We get back in a fraction of the time, but both Grace and I are a bit disoriented because we come into the street a different way. So I tell him to drive some more, but we are going away from the hotel, not towards it. Finally it hits us and we stop and walk back, almost from the Star Ferry terminal. The rain has stopped, so it is not too bad. But then the rain starts again about 200 feet from the hotel entrance.

One thing fascinates me. The two tolls to Jumbo were $40.00 and the other $5.00 HKD. Coming back? Nope, $15.00 and $5.00. I don’t drive many tolls roads where I live, but different costs for different directions on the same road does seem strange. The ride also is quite different, but then we came different roads, and it certainly was longer one way. But then going to Jumbo, he was only driving at 1/3 the speed the back driver guy drove. So one way was $157.00, the way back is $102.00. Do I think we were taken by going man? No, but maybe I am just slow or too trusting.

Airport tomorrow.

Rainy Day in Hong Kong--There's a Typhoon Out There!

2009-09-30T13:35:00.000-04:00

Monday, Sept 28—It’s still Hong Kong

Not a good day, but gotta do something.

We wake—late--and it is raining outside. There is a typhoon several hundred miles south of us, headed from the Phillipines through Hainan and going into Viet Nam. We are in the rain shield to the northwest. Typhoon in the Pacific is the same thing as a hurricane in the Atlantic. Lots of rain and flooding in Manila on the TV; images from more remote locations are slower to get on TV. But southern China and Viet Nam are bracing for a big one.

We try to get going, but we are worn out, so it is almost 10:30 before we go downstairs. Raining harder than we thought, so plans to walk over towards Kowloon Park and do some trinket shopping and go to Kenny’s Restaurant for lunch are put on hold.

Sorry to miss Kenny’s as it is popular because they have a worldwide selection; you can choose Thai while your friend gets French while another gets American. But the rain is too hard, and I have no desire to walk on these cobblestone streets and sidewalks when they are wet and slippery.

I make a couple of phone calls, one to a stamp dealer I recently bought some stamps from at an auction. Not open yet; it is 10:50. Call again at 11:30 and he answers. He will have to get back to me as his staff is still not in. Hong Kong stays up late and sleeps in--evidently.

So we head to the Thai restaurant that overlooks the harbor. Still closed; they open at 12:00.

So plan four, we go down to the mall and try to find something. Lots of food stalls here, and we pick one after “reading” the menu at several. I get Sour and Spicy Chicken over rice, Grace gets Sweet and Spicy Fish over rice. Drink is coffee or tea. We are in China--I ask for tea, so does Grace. We sit down and Grace opens her paper glass to add sugar. Tea, well, yes, but English tea with milk already added. Terrible, I can’t drink mine. Grace tries, adds more sugar, and tries again, but not much luck getting it down. Food is OK.

We wander some more. It is still raining, maybe harder. So it is after 12:00 and we head to the Thai restaurant and have a beer on the outdoor covered patio. That harbor is nice, but it is raining, and we cannot see all the way across the harbor. One is enough; we are not really up for much of anything. I do take some pictures through the rain of the very large catamaran ferries that seem to be everywhere. There are seven of them below us at the terminal while we have the beer. One has on its side New Ferry LXXVI which I think translates to 76. That is quite some ferry fleet!

Lobby has a notice that we are at Level 1 for Typhoon preparedness. Level 1 is more like pay attention, there is a typhoon within 24 hours of Hong Kong. We hope we are gone if it turns north.

Back to the room. Message on the phone from the stamp dealer says I owe a number in USD. I do a quick conversion. I thought they would add packing and shipping charges, but it is less in USD than my invoice, substantially less. I call again, nobody there. So I put a check in the mail to him for the amount he said in the message with a comment that he might want to double-check as I do not think it is enough. Hey, I want the stamps, so, yes, I am going to call his attention to it.

Naptime.

Up again at 4:30, both of us are already packed and antsy. Still raining, don’t think it will stop before we head to the airport tomorrow morning. At least all of our stuff fits inside the suitcases. And we only have one each plus a carry-on.

Dinner tonight at Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Jumbo is across town in Aberdeen, a floating restaurant that is ALL lit up and designed like a Chinese boat with dragons on both ends. We will have to take a water taxi out to it after that land taxi (car) to the location. Pictures to follow. You have to visit Jumbo. I read that it is much more than a restaurant now, an amusement park on the water. Chinese restaurants like this are much better in a group, but it is just the two of us. Group meals mean there are more choices and I like that.

Probably next blog we will be back in the US. First thing I’ll do is clean up my computer. It has been running very slowly since about Jing de zhen. Not sure if something has been added, but I’m thinking I need to check.

Best to all. It has been fun, but Grace and I both agree that 21 days in China is enough, maybe more than enough.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Company--Hong Kong Peak?

2009-09-30T13:29:00.000-04:00

Sunday, a full day in Hong Kong

Up about 7:00 am, but I am in no hurry to get going as yesterday things were quiet until 11:00. Grace however is antsy; she stayed in half of yesterday and wants out. We leave the Royal Pacific about 8 +/- and head down to the Star Ferry Terminal. About half way, I mention that we might want to consider getting some HK money. We have been getting by on RMB, mainland China currency, but last night at the Subway, they balked. I just barely had HK money enough to pay that bill.

So into Star House, but the changer people are not at their stations yet. We decide to go downstairs to the Café de Corral and get a breakfast of egg, toast, meat, and coffee. Then they ask if we want congee rice porridge) or macaroni. Out of habit we say macaroni. Off to the pick up line on the other side, and cue with everyone else waiting. Extremely efficient, one guy takes our ticket, speaks into a microphone, pulls out a tray, and slides it down the counter. Another grabs the plate from the kitchen with food already on it, and another pours and places the coffee. I am about to leave when a fourth tells me to wait, the macaroni is coming. Oh, yeah, macaroni for breakfast, I forgot. It comes, and each of us takes our tray and we go sit down.

The meat turns out to be a slice of ham (?) and a sausage (?). Toast is great, egg is good, meat is OK, but then I taste the coffee. Oh, no, they have added milk! I like black, but am unwilling to try for a change, so I set my cup aside. Besides, I already had two cups in the room. The macaroni is maybe one cup, boiled, still in water, with maybe five grains of corn, a tablespoon of cabbage (yes, boiled) and ¼ slice of ham slivered on the top as garnish. No flavor at all; bland would be a compliment.

We are a novelty, at least to the cleaner ladies who stare and giggle. One even comes by and smiles ear to ear at me. She cannot wait to take our trays.

Finished, we head upstairs, the restaurant happens to be in the basement. We walk on to the Star Ferry, passing the gauntlet of “Watch, copy watch?” guys and the “Suit, good suit, purse, copy purse?” guys hovering outside the terminal. Change $100 USD into HK $, and get $700.00 HKD. Turn and go up to the Central entry for the ferry. Take out tokens at the machine, and as soon as we drop them in the turnstile, the bell rings to board. Not many going over yet, so it is easy. Good trip--the sea is calm. We have to go slow to avoid a large dredge-like vessel and a cruise ship coming into port.

Arrive at Central, get off and head up to the bus terminal. Bus 15C at the bus cue is a standard bus, so we wait for the double-decker one with the convertible top. It arrives after about 30 minutes and we head to the Peak Tram terminal. Good ride, skyscrapers all around, sharp turns, steep climbs, lots of pedestrians, but these Hong Kong drivers are pros. They even go to driver’s school to learn how to handle these monsters in a slide!

Terminal, tickets--another cue. We get on the second tram. Grace tries to be nice, but tourists and locals alike go on ahead. It is OK; nothing can take away from such a ride. I am not sure of the angle, but it is extreme, maybe 45o at some points along the track. Up, up, and up some more. We did pass one short level place where the trams pass each other, then up again. Several stops along the way as many live in apartments on the side of this mountain. The tram is pulled up by cable, pulled by an electric motor. Big motor as each tram holds > 100 people, and there are two trams in operation at one time.

At the top, there are now two shopping centers, both huge, and crowded. We try for the very top, up I think it was five escalators, but at the last one they want another 10.00 HKD, and I balk. So back down again, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 escalators, and out onto a terrace. Nice fresh air, good breeze, even some room to roam.

Oh, the Bubba Gump Shrimp Company has a location at that fourth escalator up just in case you are wondering. I came to China to eat at a Bubba Gump? No thanks. Also a big promotion is going on for Hong Kong Disney Land. They are getting ready to host a spooktacular Halloween there next month. Yes, really; Halloween has come to China.

We hang around, find an overlook, window shop, and eat a bit. Back down on the tram, taxi to Hollywood Road and the antique shops. We are dropped off exactly where I asked, but have to walk several blocks before we find anything open. It is Sunday, and although Sunday does not mean that much here, most shops are still closed. First open one is a small local guy, and he does have some nice pieces, but a bit pricey. Then to Arch Angel, a world class shop that I have been to before. Amazing prices, amazing. Three floors worth, filled with furniture, ceramics, pottery, painting. I gotta say I was loving it, but the prices? Wow!

We meet a nice young Italian man, and Grace, the young man, the store owner and I talk a good bit. These are challenging times in the antique business. We go next door to another of their locations and I find a couple more pieces. But they start at $8,000 HKD. I think that works out to >$1100.00 USD. Not sure that is even worth starting to bargain for. We talk some more and she says the price is negotiable.

I decide to pass, for now.

Walk some more and find Oi Ling Antiques. Oi Ling is another very high quality shop with a world wide clientele. They tell us they do not carry ceramics; it has gotten too problematic, too hard to authenticate. But what surprise me is many of these shops carry Tang Dynasty Pottery pieces. Ever seen one at $400,000 HKD? That is around $6,000.00 USD! Pieces in the auctions here often go for >$1 million USD, often. Amazing. Chaks, another I wanted to go into, is closed up tight.
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We are worn out, still thinking of the night market, but….

We take a taxi to the Star Ferry terminal, back across the harbor, and go up to the Internet Café. Again, we are staying in a hotel that wants blood for a connection. Remember? $40.00 HKD for one hour at the hotel? ”Only” $20.00 HKD per hour at the café, a deal. I insert my thumb drive into the USB port but it does not work. OK, the other drive, nope. Grace asks to try, and it does not work in either of hers either. I asked yesterday, and the manager told me it would work, so one more try--we turn it upside down. Yep, it works. It is a complicated world we live in.

We try to walk back to the hotel, but decide to stop along the way, into this time the Gateway Mall. These malls do NOT have meaningful maps; they want you to wander. We do, but finally find Bubble Bar at the Prince Hotel, another hotel above this monster mall along the waterfront. Nice, cool, refreshing and comfortable seats. So we rest a bit, then head back to the hotel and now we are here. It is 7:30, and I do NOT think the night market is on our agenda. We left at 8:00 am +/- and got back about 6:45, almost all that time on our feet. Our feet are asking for mercy. But who knows, we are only in Hong Kong for one more day. Time is short.

Oh, that $700.00 HKD? I am having trouble finding it and trouble remembering how I spent that much today. But this is a big city, and big cities are expensive.

Saturday -- Hong Kong.

2009-09-27T12:07:00.000-04:00

Big city, sleepy city, apparently.

We got going about 8:30 am, but most everything is closed. As Grace wrote, she is in a comfort-needed mode. So breakfast at McDonald’s in the monster mall downstairs, two egg McMuffins with ham, hash browns, and coffee. The hotel is actually above a four-story mall that stretches several city blocks. Under that restaurant we ate at yesterday (Pierside) is a ferry terminal that hosts the very large ocean-going catamarans that carry hundreds of passengers to many off-shore islands. That was one of the places I wandered around in (lost mostly) for a time last night. Could never quite figure out which floor I was on; the escalators do not always go up or down one floor. Most everything you could want, except that elusive bottle of Scotch or a laundry. Guess I will have to wait on the Scotch, not the type that enjoys paying $10 per for a single shot. And I guess the laundry will have to wait, too. Grace and I both have enough clean to get back to San Francisco and hopefully my brother Frank will let us use his washer.

Then off to the Star Ferry area. I wanted to visit with a stamp dealer friend close to there, Ming Yang of N.C. Yang Stamps. Not open till 11:00, so we tried to find something else to do. But almost nothing is open till 10:00, and it is not even 9:30. So we wandered, but found little. Finally the China Arts and Crafts store opened and we went in there. To be honest, it is too expensive. Did find a golden dragon Christmas ornament for Dr. Shultz; she asked Grace to bring an ornament as she has them from all over the world. The Internet Café opened next door, so we went in there and read and wrote emails for an hour. Point of information: $20.00 HKD or about $3.00 USD for an hour instead of the $40.00 HKD per hour the hotel wants. Grace takes the first half hour; I take the second.

Then to N.C. Yang, but he is not there; he is upstairs in his office on the 15th floor. Can’t find the elevator; then, we do but only 3 of 6 elevators go to the 15th floor. OK, right elevator, right floor. And oh my, he has closed for lunch. Right, he opens at 11:00, and then closes for lunch at 12:00.

Frustrated, we head back to the hotel to clean up before heading to the Thai restaurant next door. Well, not directly. We enter the hotel, our hotel, and find the elevator and press 15th floor. We are in room 1541 so that makes sense, right? Ah, silly flatlanders. You see, we have gone up in the wrong elevator. This elevator only takes you to rooms 01 to 29 on the 15th floor. Yep, there are TWO towers at this hotel. Back down, across the lobby, through the door, into another lobby, find the right elevator, and press 15 and hope. Bingo, we are at the right floor, in the right tower, in the right hotel. A relief: there is our room and the key works.

Back down to the lobby and to the Thai restaurant. Wonderful waterfront view, a curry dish and a pork with garlic dish, two Singhas--nice lunch, nice service, and much more reasonable, but still about $45 USD. Hong Kong is more expensive than mainland China.

Worn out again, we head back to the room. This time we make sure to get onto the right elevator.

Wake before 4:00 and Grace’s stomach is torn up, so I head out on my own. Plan had been to go to Yang’s, then across the harbor on the Star Ferry, then up the Peak Tram for dinner and the sunset. Guess that will have to wait.

This time Ming Yang is in and very welcoming. I spend about an hour there, then wander some more, pick up a BMT at Subway (Yes, McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, KFC, Starbucks and now Subway are all here. Grace also saw a Burger King sign yesterday.) and a couple of Cokes for Grace, thinking her stomach may find comfort in familiar food. Oh, did I mention that the elevator I came up on is now not working? It is after 5:00 and this bank of elevators closes down then. Ming points me to a different bank, several shops away and around three corners, but they work.

Back at the hotel and Grace is feeling better, some. Oh, maybe I should have left the jalapenos off the Subway BMT? We’ll know more tomorrow.

Calm evening in the room and things to do tomorrow. Let’s see: Star Ferry, Peak Tram and the Peak, then some antique stores, maybe the night market tomorrow night? We’ll have to see tomorrow. Lots of walking still to do, but that sounds a little ambitious.

Friday, Xiamen to Hong Kong

2009-09-27T12:02:00.002-04:00

Actually starts Thursday in Xiamen.

After a lot of back and forth email and phone calls, with few actual conversations, we had a message that a lady artist friend of Grace’s was going to come to dinner. We are down in the lobby at 6:30, but no Luo Ping. A young girl sits down and bashfully asks if we are waiting for ? in very good English, except the name. We say no, but Grace digs a bit further, and sure enough this young lady is there for us too. Luo Ping does not speak English, so she has invited a student of hers from Xiamen University to come along. We talk a while and maybe 15 minutes later Luo Ping shows up. I figure the student is thirteen; turns out she is a junior in college. I’m getting old, fast.

Our upstairs restaurant is full, both the one we ate at the night before (was it just last night?) and the Chinese restaurant, so we head out onto the street. One thing for sure, you are not going to run out of restaurants in China; they are everywhere. We go behind our hotel and to another, and go up to their top floor to an even bigger restaurant. It is a bit crowded, but they make room for the four of us, and we get a menu.

Now, you have to understand, a dinner in China, especially one with foreigners is not an everyday occurrence. And it should not be taken lightly. The Chinese ladies discuss dishes, ingredients, preparation and more with the waiter before they make a decision. And that is on a normal day; when you have guests, it can get intense. It was. They settle on I think six dishes, and we get tea. Would much rather have beer, but this is Grace’s thing and beer is not offered.

The dishes come, and I have to say they were excellent, every one, well, except one. Several seafood (Xiamen is famous for their high quality seafood.) dishes; several spring rolls; a “beef” dish (Have never seen a cow in China.); a noodle dish, but we are told it is not noodle, and they cannot tell us what it is; and peanut soup. Now the soup was the closest to not being good, quite bland with boiled peanuts in water, and a little sugar. You don’t need to try that one when I get home.

Very nice dinner, and we pick up the tab, although only after a struggle. They insist they are the hosts; Grace argues she made the invitation. I pay. As we are saying good night, Luo Ping and June say they think they should see us off at the airport the next morning. We assure them that we are comfortable taking a taxi, and it would be too much to ask that they go to the trouble. We tell them how much we appreciate the offer.

We get back to the hotel after a little more shopping on the street. The phone rings, and the hotel desk clerk conveys the message that Luo Ping and her husband will be downstairs at 7:30 am tomorrow morning to take us to the airport. You cannot argue with a message. Good night’s sleep, but we were completely happy to take a cab.

The ride to the airport is uneventful. We attempt conversation with the aid of Luo Ping’s handheld translator while her husband drives. We learn that her husband is also an art teacher at Xiamen University and that their son did well in his graduate studies interview the evening before. We get unloaded at curbside, take more photos, and get started with check-in. It is a short walk (thank you) and we line up in the International line, but when we get close to the security, I tell Grace this is wrong as we do not have tickets yet. So we get out of line, walk a ways and stop at a booth that says Shenzen Airlines, but nobody is there. I ask the girl next door, and she tells us to go down to another area. We walk some more and find a check-in counter, get in line and wait. And wait. Finally our turn, but she cannot help us; we are International. After some struggle, we head back (more walking) to the original International entry, and the line is gone. We approach the security, and I explain we have no boarding passes; they wave us through. Customs--they wave us on, health check--they wave us on, ah, a ticket/check-in counter just like home. Kind of. We wait some more and eventually get to the counter. Sure enough all these people knew what they were telling us to do; we get boarding passes, checked in, and baggage “reclaim” tags.

Traveling on your own, when you do not speak the language or read the signs. wears you down. It is fun, but it does wear you down.

Actually, nobody gives our bags even a glance through security as the security guy is busy going through Australian lady’s things. More walking with no signs, but we follow others who seem to know where they are headed and to the health counter. We approach the “immigration” window, go through close scrutiny, and on to the gate area. More walking. Did I ever tell you there is a lot of walking in China? Yep.

Nice reception or waiting area--we try to let down a bit.

Flight is very nice; the plane is full as has been every plane we have been on here.

Hong Kong arrival is much less spectacular than it used to be. The first flight into Hong Kong was for me in the 80’s, and at that time you literally flew past apartment windows, close enough it felt like you could reach out and touch someone. Hong Kong at that time had the reputation of being one of the toughest airports for pilots to land at. Today the new airport is away form all buildings, way out by Lantau Island and is monstrous and very well laid out except for poor retired teachers from Florida who don’t walk much at home. Health check, security check, “immigration” and Visa counter, get the bags. We have nothing to declare, so we walk straight through that station, down a hall, into a waiting area, and to booth A02 for the hotel shuttle booth. They give us a sticker and ask us to sit in a waiting area. Fifteen minutes later, and a guy comes along and calls us to follow him. We walk the length of the terminal so it seems, pick up a couple more at another waiting area, and walk some more. Another terminal, down a ramp, down an elevator, through a tunnel, across a monstrous waiting hall, and wait some more. Thank God for rolling luggage. Bus driver arrives and we load up and get to sit in very comfortable seats in an air conditioned bus.45 minute drive into the hotel. We are really stretched thin, tired.

Room is the largest I have ever had in Hong Kong. Matter of fact, the bathroom is larger than one Hong Kong room I stayed in! I am impressed, and after sitting on her bed, Grace is impressed too.

I first came to Hong Kong in the 50’s. Hard to believe, but true. Cannot remember many details, but I do remember I was impressed, and I was just 13 at that time. Most 13-year-olds are not impressed with much. Hong Kong is absolutely one of the planet’s premier cities. If you have not been here, you need to come. I have now been here maybe six times, and it is always different: bigger and better.

We crash (intense nap for those of you who do not speak Archie); then about 4:00 we get up and head to the Pierside Bar. We do get a drink each and finally order a plate of fries after the girl tries to take Grace’s table service away without asking if we want food. Was a hint we should have paid attention to. The help soon disappears before we get the fries, and both glasses are empty. I even get up, walk around the bar area, and find not a soul anywhere. Sit back down and finally she comes with the plate. Drinks still empty, but we have decided to move on anyway. By the way, she did not ask; she is the food waitress, not the bar waitress. Distribution of labor? They disappear again, and we have to wait to get a bill. We do finally.

We get back to the room, and I head out to investigate, Grace to rest. Besides I would love a bottle of Scotch; after all, we are here for four days. My single drink was $10.00 USD and I am not going to have another there; that is for sure. No bottle shops, lots of “Want a copy watch, copy watch? Rolex Heaur, Rolex, etc.” and “Tailor, want a tailor? I have tailor shop.” Funny, none of these guys are Chinese. WE are in China mind you and they are Asian, but not Chinese. I do get a couple bottles of water, some crackers, and a magazine.

I’m back in the room now. Going to rest up for tomorrow. There just might be some walking in store for us.

Signs

2009-09-27T12:02:00.001-04:00

Signs Fascinate Me

2009-09-27T11:53:00.000-04:00

Signs fascinate me: some humorous; some telling of the situation. I’m not laughing at anyone as I am sure our attempts at Mandarin are somewhat pitiful.

The first photo—“No Louding.” Chinese people love to get together for almost any reason. And when they do, they certainly have a wonderful time. Being from a large family, I identify with their noise level. This sign was on the wall of the Lingering Gardens in Suzhou. There were many Chinese tourists there along with other tourists from all over the world. Guess the powers that be wished to make a good impression. Therefore, “no louding” allowed.

And, yes, there was Tiger Woods in the huge Accenture ad in the Hongqiao Airport as we were leaving Shanghai.

There was a sign on the railing around our second floor balcony at the Lu Jiang Hotel in Xiamen: “Prohibition of Climbing.” If a sign can be translated, “No Louding,” why not “No Climbing”? “Prohibition of Climbing” must have seemed much more forbidding.

The sign about giving up your seat “to the elderly” was above my head when I was sitting on the ferry from Xiamen to Gulangyu—Archie’s humor.

Just as the wrong tone can completely change the meaning of a Chinese word, a missing or misplaced letter can do the same for English. The hotel information book had a label in Chinese and in English. The English message said, “For your readying pleasure.” Getting ready to see the local sights?

But I do love the signs in our Hong Kong bathroom. Remember that Hong Kong was a British protectorate for many years. English is spoken often and spoken well. The humor I see here is in the necessity for the provided information: “For your own safety, please do not bathe when you are fatigued, after consumption of excess alcohol, or when you do not feel well.” Please notice the handles on the bathtub to help with entering and/or exiting the tub. With the prices in Hong Kong being what they are, I would surmise that there are lots of charges on the ole corporate credit card other than lodging. Many American movies are offered via the room TV; about every fifth ad is for QUALITY ADULT ENTERTAINMENT with the assurance that no movie titles will be listed on the bill.

At the Internet café there were several young people playing video games. (Not nearly as many as I would have expected since it was Saturday.) The noise level was VERY HIGH! We were relieved that the Internet email hookups were in a separate room with a sign on the door to keep it shut. The sign on the entry door tells a lot: “No one under 16 or in school uniform allowed.” Guess that cuts down on school truancy. You think? But not late nights if you are over 16—closes at 2 am.

Did you notice that McDonald’s is open 24 hours in Hong Kong? “I’m loving it.”

And the truck with “Pearly Gates”? Archie just thought that was cool. He says you can get to heaven from Hong Kong.

Missed posting

2009-09-24T10:15:00.001-04:00

We missed a posting from Tuesday afternoon at the airport. It's been added below in the correct order. It's titled Airport.

Xiamen, Thursday.

2009-09-24T10:14:00.001-04:00

Today is a pretty laid back day for us, nice to relax every now and then. Some would say we are going too slow, but please remember, we have been here before. If this was our first time in China, I think every minute would be scheduled out beforehand.

Having some challenges reaching the people we were going to meet for dinner, so that may not happen. An artist we met in Sarasota does not speak English, so that is a handicap.

I write a lot, yes. Paul Doughboy (not his real name) used to tell me in Qingdao that I wrote too much. Not true.

For instance, I have not told you about mini bars in China. For instance, our present mini bar here has the following prices: Coca Cola, 8 RMB, Sprite, 8 RMB, Tsingtao Beer, 8 RMB and mineral water 20 RMB. That is triple for water, and that equals about $3.00 USD! How did we ever let these water people get to this stage? Incredible.

Or that I took 200 pictures in Jing de zhen. Bet you are glad I did not post and discuss all of them. Then 60 more the first day here, and remember, we got here about 4:30 pm. Amazing what a digital camera can do for you. Glad I am not using Kodachrome or Fuji. I used to go through ten rolls while visiting here for 30 days. Matter of fact, I have not seen a single camera “booth” since arriving this time, everyone uses digital here. If you want to see all of them, come over to our house when we get back and we can have a slide show like my parents used to make us sit through. That was not fun for me. But I have gone through a lot of batteries, guess there is a good reason.

Also guess that means you need one of those new multi-gigabyte camera cards to store all the pictures. I dump them into my computer each night. But it is far heavier than a mini disc or whatever they call them today. I’m sure they are available here, but we have stayed out of the electronics stores, except one in Suzhou. Three floors, each at least 4000 sq ft, and packed with kids, adults, and more kids. They take their electronics seriously: computers, cameras, more computers, gaming, more cameras, more computers and lots of stuff I did not recognize and was too pressed to ask about. If I remember right it was a Sunday afternoon, no school.

And remember all those giant hotels for foreigners? Lots of modern and clean hotels along the Motel 8 concept are springing up. Some even have parking spaces set aside for drivers. Used to be the big ones were easily $150.00+/day (many still are), but these new ones are around $20.00/day. They are going to shake up the travel industry here, big time. Last year in Beijing around Olympic time the big ones were charging $4-500.00/night! Or maybe I should say asking, never heard if they got any takers, but know there was a good bit of criticism that many event seats went empty. Even for the popular events, too expensive. Just try searching for China + city name + hotel and see what you come up with. Lots of internet booking going on as China now has more broadband users than any country.

Tomorrow we head to Hong Kong. Hong Kong used to be the all time shopper’s paradise. The last several times I have been there however, prices have been higher than most big box stores in the US, so I usually leave empty handed except for a few souvenirs. That might be a good thing as I mailed home a heavy box yesterday to lighten the load. They also used to let you take in one suitcase per person, but leave with two at no extra charge. I’m interested to see if that still is the way it works.

Still smiling.

Photos from Xiamen

2009-09-24T08:49:00.001-04:00

In the foreground is our ferry, the back boat is a tour boat. Cooler, but not ours. Part of Gu lang yu Island in background.

Lady artist at the rock picture shop.

Above is a dough character maker on Fu Zhou Lu.

Wednesday, first full day in Xiamen

2009-09-24T08:48:00.000-04:00

Woke up after sleeping 10 + hours, that was a good bed, and I was tired, very. Maybe more than I thought.

Breakfast downstairs, and a couple from Singapore sit with us, the restaurant is so crowded. She speaks English (Singapore, yes, English) so we have a short conversation, but the restaurant starts to clear some so they get their own table. A little disappointed, that might have proved interesting.

Off to Gu lang yu, or Piano Island as it is know hereabouts. Named that because so many of the missionaries that lived here in treaty port times (What the Chinese call the Unequal Treaties.) had pianos. Now home to a piano museum and one of the country’s best music school programs is located on the island. WE have been forewarned by the Singapore couple that there are no English speaking guides, so I am going to guide Grace. Well, I have been here once before. But as we approach the ferry, a young girl approaches and offers to be our guide. She speaks English quite well, and will charge 20 RMB (less than $3.00 USD) for two + hours. That is about all Grace and I think we can handle, it is hot, the sun is shinning, and our dogs both hurt, or maybe I should say all four dogs hurt. So we jump at the chance and hire her.

Ferry ride over is no charge, and she begins a good narration of the surroundings and architecture. Before we go far she stops at her office and we register. Now I am super sensitive about signing anything without reading it in the US. I did not say without understanding, but I do read it all. She asks me to sign my name, and the form is completely written in Chinese. I see the date, I see the start time 10:50, I see 20 RMB and I see my name in my handwriting. I keep a copy because this is probably the last and only time I am going to sign my name blindly. Streets are narrow, cobblestone mostly, no cars or bikes allowed. There are electric trams that the guide service uses, but we walk. At least we are with a legitimate guide?

Gu lang yu is special. When the foreign powers got extraterritoriality they set up isolated (from the Chinese) enclaves that were subject to their laws, not Chinese laws. This one was Amoy, one of the first ports. Lots of strange (for China) buildings. German Consulate, British, Japanese, Dutch, we do not see an American, although they were certainly here too. One looks like a Greek building you would find in Athens, very much so. Lots of hotels, a youth hostel, so many coffee shops I stop counting, and of course shops and shops and more shops. Only one we stop at is a pearl shop, she says they have pearls for $1.00. Ah, an American sucker is reeled in; sure, $1.00.

Then a shop where a young lady out front is carving (?) on a shiny piece of black polished stone. But not carving as I thought, more like punching a tiny dot, moving the tool, then punching again. I gotta see, so we go inside that one too. Absolutely amazing. Have you ever seen the “pictures” printed in the Wall Street Journal? Like that, composed of hundreds if not thousands of tiny dots. We bargain and Grace ends up with a Qi Baishi likeness, our favorite Chinese artist, small version thank you as our bags are getting heavy. Some are even colored after the carving, ours is black and white, no color added.

We walk on to the other side and the beach, but thankfully this is where the trams come in. To that 20 RMB for the guide now is added 10 more RMB each, yes another 20 RMB. But with sore dogs and a return trip by a different route, we are game. At least I do not have to pay for the guide Mary.

Back to the ferry, and oh yes, another 8 RMB each for the return trip to Xiamen, so another 16 RMB. You do the math, my 20 RMB trip has just tripled in price. Still well worth the cost, but too many hidden costs for me. And notice how I did not say how much we spent in the pearl or art shops?

Back in Xiamen I ask Mary to assist me at the post office. A friend gave me a large stack of used postcards and stamp newspapers (I’m a stamp collector if you did not know.) that I have been carrying around since Suzhou, and they are heavy, and getting heavier if that is possible. So she goes with me to the post office and we mail parcel post those items back to the US. Choice is to pay postage or extra baggage charges, and at this point, extra baggage is going to cost more. Two months delivery, but I am in no hurry, glad to send them.

Hotel again and another rest.

Evening and Grace and I head out for a walk. Down Fu Zhou Lu, a street next to our hotel, a pedestrian walkway with no traffic, at least none at night. Shops are extra clean, very modern and stylish. Not the extreme Shanghai high fashion, but very nice. Evening is cool and pleasant. There are several local folk artists on the street. The photo is of a special local art form: dough figures that Fujian is famous for. The bottom ones are cute, but the ones up above are much more detailed and fancy. Cool, but not sure it would get home in one piece, so we pass. Wow, did not even ask the price! Down a side alley with lots of food vendors, then back another alley and return to Fu Zhou Lu. We sit at an outside table and have a cup of coffee and a blueberry Danish, watching the locals go by, and them watching us. I order a baguette for tomorrow, hoping it will be similar to French bread, we’ll see.

Getting late and the sun is way down, we head back to the hotel and our room.

Very pleasant day, very. Xiamen is friendly, clean and welcoming. I think you could be very comfortable in Xiamen.

Airport

2009-09-24T08:47:00.000-04:00

Tuesday when we got to the airport, we had plenty of time. Albert told us the plane had still not left Shanghai, that they are often 20-30 minutes late arriving here. So we are relaxed. Well, not exactly, the Hong Kong or Xiamen decision is still up in the air. Albert is nice enough to allow us to use his cell phone to call Beijing. Actually, he calls himself, which is good; he can be more upset than I want to be in this situation. He is; thinks it’s terrible that they have not gotten back to us.

He gets through and talks to Coco in Beijing. She assures him the confirmation was sent via email and gives him the flight number and departure time. He almost hangs up before we remind him we do not know which airline the numbers stand for. Turns out it is Xiamen Airlines, to Xiamen.

What would happen without Chinese friends?

We check in, and of course, since the airport is small and they have nothing else to do, we get our bags checked. The transformers in my suitcase seem to be of interest. Not a problem. I show them, they are happy, I tell them they are for the computer. Forget what they check Grace’s for, but no big deal. We both go through security, and, of course, I also get a thorough body scan. Again, they are just being cautious, not a big deal. The security guy thinks it funny my beard is gone, actually laughs, never seen one do that before. I have several porcelain objects in my bags that usually are checked as porcelain and ceramic material is opaque to X-Rays. But this is Jing de zhen; who doesn’t have porcelain when they leave?

There is a nice “reception hall” for waiting for the flight. Grace and I both comment that we did not, and do not, feel in any way intimidated. The security is thorough, but polite and sincere. In the 80’s you felt they thought every American was a potential threat. That feeling is gone, from everywhere we have been this time. Good riddance.

Flight to Shenzen is uneventful, and the landing is smooth. We have to get our bags and walk to ticketing as we did not check all the way through. Long walk, even turns out it is in a different terminal, terminal A. Have to go back and ask where is terminal A, no signs in English we see. Oh, except directions to the McDonald’s on the ground floor, terminal B. We find terminal A, but cannot locate Xiamen Airlines; we have walked with bags it seems like a mile, at least. Grace asks. Hey, this may be China, but guys don’t ask direction just because they are in a different country!

Ticketing smooth, security again, smooth, get to the gate 30 minutes before departure. We talk to an American businessman who has had interests here for 12 years. He has been to China six times so far this year. That’s brutal on the body, and I tell him so. He agrees. I ask him if he is actually making money and he says reservedly, yes, but. Lots of buts here. Like how do you get the money (RMB) out of the country when it is made? China’s currency is not widely accepted on world financial markets, to say the least. Lots more buts, too many buts for most, but he says he is here for the long term, and willing to put up with it. His money, his time.

Xiamen finally, the airport is large, modern, clean, and well laid out. We get our bags and head to the taxi stand. Wowsers! Grace about panics at the line. We estimate it is better than 100 people long and 75 more get in line behind us, but the taxi cue is working well and there are taxis filling and moving on quite rapidly. It is actually two lanes at a time. One Chinese man suddenly tries to grab a cab without waiting, and a policeman quickly asks him what he thinks he is doing? The taxi had refused him too. He hangs his head, and the policeman shows him the end of the line. Of course, he now has to pass all of us that watched him try to butt the line. Eye contact is minimal from him.

The driver understands my Chinese. Actually that is a surprise because every Chinese location has a different dialect. We are now in Fujian Province, and this dialect is more like Cantonese than Mandarin, which we try to speak. He asks us which way we want to go, and I tell him (this time in English, which I know he does NOT understand) I don’t care--dangerous instructions in many cities worldwide, but OK for here, for now. We travel through the city instead of the long way along the harbor, and it is modern, pretty clean, and nicely laid out.

Get to the hotel, and check-in goes well. Second floor, very clean and sharp room, waterfront facing Gu lang yu Island the old Amoy of Treaty Port fame. Sun is out; we can see blue sky (first time since arriving in China, saw some sun one morning in Suzhou for 15 minutes, that has been all), and Grace is ecstatic. We rest for a bit and then head up to the rooftop restaurant to see if we want to eat there. Wow, open air, beautiful view, and cold beer. What else could an American boy want? Oh, yes, Grace is with me so food is important too.

We each go to a buffet with chefs behind and choose three dishes. Mine are cold octopus with a real wasabi and soy dip, a type of spring roll with seafood and broccoli, onion, and carrots, and five large grilled shrimp on skewers. I recognize the octopus tentacles and love them. The wasabi sauce kicks me, but is excellent. Hey, this is the coast; you eat seafood don’t you? Grace orders dumplings, seafood mix wrapped in bacon, green (vegetable?) patties and a bowl with a peach half and a cute little paper peacock.

Night falls, lights come on, and we watch Gu lang yu, tomorrow’s destination grow dark and the harbor start to sleep.

Back to the room, and I am beat. I think I go to bed around 7:30 pm and sleep until 6 am. Grace is still working on email and the computer when I go to bed. We learned that there was flash flooding in Atlanta by watching TV—CNN in English—so she was checking on the kids. We have Internet access again in our room, and all is well.

Ah, nice bed, soft bed, clean sheets bed, wonderful dreams bed.

Good night, Wednesday.

Taxi?

2009-09-23T09:55:00.000-04:00

Above is the cue in front of us, maybe 100 people long, below is the cue behind us at Xiamen airport waiting for taxis.

Tuesday morning

2009-09-23T08:27:00.001-04:00

No ticket confirmation. It is a bit before 8:00 am, Tuesday morning, and we leave the hotel at 9:00 for the airport.

We are trying to decide if we want to try to go to Xiamen after all this. What with the water stoppage, ticket snafu, lack of contact with agent, etc. Maybe someone or something is trying to tell us not to go?

We do have tickets from Jing de zhen to Shenzen. Shenzen is just across the line from Hong Kong, and the thought has crossed my mind why struggle to fly all the way up to Xiamen after all this, Xiamen is really almost parallel with where we are, just can’t get there directly. Maybe just go on to Hong Kong from Xiamen and spend an extra day or two there. No way we would run out of things to do in Hong Kong, but part of the purpose of the trip from the start was to go to Xiamen. I was part of the Sarasota, FL Sister City delegation to Xiamen in 2007 and had hoped to make some contacts and strengthen some previously made.

So Grace and I are on hold right now, waiting, which I do not do very well. I’ll call the Beijing office in a few minutes and see what they have to say for themselves.

Any suggestions from home on what to do?

Love this place.

Called Beijing but could not get through. Called again, then called the front desk and asked if I was calling properly. No.

I called again this time the right number, but no answer. But then noticed the Beijing office opens at 9:00, not 8:00. At 9:00 we will be in the car on the way to the airport. Chance Albert will let us use his cell phone to call Beijing?

Unknown in a foreign country where you neither read nor understand the language can sometimes be fun, but just as often be frustrating.

More later, gotta unplug and go.

Jing de Zhen Photos

2009-09-21T10:14:00.000-04:00

The girl Archie bargained with.

Baixu, Albert, Grace and Archie at dinner.

Dinner

Last day in Jing de zhen

2009-09-21T09:59:00.000-04:00

Last day in Jing de zhen, maybe. No email confirmation about our flight change from Shenzen to Xiamen.

We are up early, so no breakfast, we are off to WalMart. Now, those of you who know me well know I am NOT a fan of WalMart. However, if the town has a WalMart in China, then it is a destination point that every taxi driver knows, even in our (maybe I should say my) poor Chinese. Across the street from WalMart and down an alley is supposed to be a Monday morning event here in Jing de zhen. This has been the center for porcelain production for better than 1000 years. Thus, there is lots of stuff out there to be found. And that is exactly what we are looking for: The Monday morning found things market. Not sure it translates as such, but that is what we were told it was when we first arrived.

Lo and behold we arrive. An empty lot filled with vendors down on their rears with blankets of shards and misc spread before them. It opens at 6:30, we are some of the first to arrive at 6:40. Not much but broken porcelain, but to us collectors that is fun too. Except everything is similar: blue and white, Qing Dynasty (1600-1900), bottoms and more bottoms. Get half way down the lane and there are some better things, little figures, some broken stem cups, some interesting wine cups. I get 8 wine cups at one vendor, but am getting bored. See a couple of statues, and ask the price for one but she replies 800 RMB! That is better than $100.00 USD! Gees, I thought we were in the back woods here. We haggle, I offer 100, that is RMB not $, and she comes to 600. From there it is pretty much a stalemate, and I walk off two times, only for her to make some other statement to bring me back. I go to 200 after she comes down to 400, but neither will budge from there. I leave again, and she drops to 350, so I go back. By now she has gotten me a stool form an neighbor, she takes pity on this old man going down and back up each time, it ain’t easy. I tell her 300, and she groans and shakes her head. Grace whispers that it is a nice piece, for the fifth time, and I tell her yes, but not at that price. I offer 300 one more time, she counters with 320, and I walk, again. I get two vendors away and she sends a guy to bring me back. 300 is OK, she caves, and I feel fantastic. Until I do the math and realize I paid > 1/3 of her asking price; that is always my target. But it is a nice piece, and I am happy.

We walk some more, but start hearing a commotion to our right, and as we get to the end of the lane, another whole area opens, this one with the real vendors. We have been with the beginners. These guys have Song Dynasty wares, Mao memorabilia, wood carvings, rare and newly old things, it is a place where you could spend weeks looking. Surprising tho we do not really find anything in this area we want. Most I have already, or it is prohibited from being taken out of the country. So we enjoy the stroll, but add no more. But there is bargaining all around, and some intense and heated exchanges for sure.

Finished at about 8:30, if we get the right taxi we can make it to breakfast still. We do.

Back in the room we look over our new stuff, and are pleased. Nap time, apparently I did not appreciate how tired we were yesterday, because we are still tired after a good night’s sleep.

After lunch, no confirmation. I write an email, but my hopes are dimming. Grace and I go investigate another hotel that may be nicer than this one. Find an incredibly clean and neat one just across the river, the Jin Jiang Inn. Nobody speaks English, but Grace ends up talking to someone on the phone who does, and we check out a room and get their card. Who knows, next time?

Further down we find the Holy Mountain Hotel, a very nice 4 star like ours with an incredible gift shop. About thirty major ceramics artists are represented, with 7-10 pieces each. We enjoy looking, this is great stuff. We grab a beer in their lounge and rest some, those feet get a work out here.

Back to our hotel and we get cleaned up for dinner. Baixu and her friend Albert come by and take us to the Six Thousand Flavor Restaurant. Where else? Food street! The menu looks more like a hardback book, with page after page of great pictures and prices. They may actually have six thousand choices. Pictures attached needless to say. Best food so far on the trip, by far. Well, maybe short of M on the Bund food, but great. And surprisingly, Baixu picks up the tab! I argue, but she will not budge. They drive us home, but Baixu tells us goodbye as she has a staff meeting tomorrow so we will not see her again until we return or she comes to the US. Not so far fetched as she was in England last year and is headed to Australia next February.

Another great day in China.

Gotta check my email.

Photos of Archie's 'New Do'

2009-09-21T09:57:00.000-04:00

Relaxation and a hair cut

2009-09-21T09:32:00.000-04:00

Relax day.

Today is Sunday, and I gotta say that both Grace and I need a rest.

Saturday’s intense where are we going and when drama wore me out completely, even though the second part of the day was very relaxing mentally.

Today we got up leisurely and ate a nice breakfast at the hotel restaurant. No schedule, no run here to do that, then there to do this. So after breakfast, we walked down the street to an eyeglass store and asked the man if he could fix Grace’s glasses. He did with a smile, the lens had fallen out but my eyes do not see that small, and we had not brought our usual glass repair kit. No charge. Nice

And that is one of the reasons we are having such a good time, even tho tired. The Chinese person, for the most part is happy, pleasant, proud, and willing to assist. Usually without their hand reaching into your pocket (maybe I should add too deeply?). It is almost always a pleasure dealing with them, be they a local shopkeeper or a student we meet that wishes to practice their language skills.

The Chinese are on a roll, and almost daily they see improvement in their lifestyle. We were talking to a lady from Australia this morning at breakfast. She first came to Jing de zhen 6 years ago. She has lived here as a resident artist or teaching at the university for two years in addition to a number of additional trips here. We had a nice discussion as to how China in general and Jing de zhen in particular has changed. Sure, there are the things that will never change, but it is amazing to anyone who has visited over time the progress they are making.

After the glasses shop we came back to the hotel and rested. As lunchtime approached we walked down the street again, but on the other side. Stopped at an ATM and tried to get some money. It worked in Shanghai, why not here? Nope. Card not valid. Hope that does not mean trouble. We went inside, yes, banks are apparently open on Sunday here, surprise! (Yes, I was too.) but we had left our small English to Chinese book in the room, and we did not speak what was needed. And they did not speak a word of English either. Not a problem, when the security guard could not help, we went to a teller. She could not speak a word of English either, but we eventually got through that we were Americans, and the debit card did not work in their machine. The guard then walked us down another 150 feet to a different bank’s (they are everywhere, the average Chinese person saves 20 % of their income!) ATM facility and asked their security guard if we could try. He suggested one machine out of the four there, and sure enough English appears on the screen as an option. Money came out, we smiled and say thank you, and we are off again.

Across from the hotel and down a side street is an urban redevelopment area that has been renovated along the lines of a Ming Dynasty street. Magnificent buildings, but a lot of food and trinket booths all blocking traffic and the way. We walk down there maybe four blocks and come to the end, where they are building what appears to be an apartment complex along the same lines. Beautiful, modern, and well designed. Nothing further, and no sit down restaurants, so we head back. I sit for a photo at a sculpture of an old Chinese barber cast in bronze. Back to the front and we get lunch at a fast serve Chinese restaurant. Clean, efficient, fair prices, modern, they are going to have a tremendous impact on this country just as our McDonald’s and such did.

Heading back to the hotel after lunch, we pass an older Chinese man in an alley and sure enough, he has almost the same setup the bronze casting had, a barber. I shake my head, and do not want to try him as I have been waiting for one of those that has the massage offering too. But we get 50 feet and I reconsider. Grace laughs, and takes the camera. I ask what price, but he is too deaf or does not understand, he is possibly 70 years old. Just then a very loud speaker comes on right behind him, blaring shop music from the store just to his right. He picks up the chair, moves to the other side of the alley, and sets it down. He goes back for his mirror stand and wash bowl, and I sit in the chair. Haircut begins, he is slow, no electrical apparatus here, all man powered. He does a pretty good job on the head, then offers to wash my hair, so I bend forward and let him. Then comes the shave on the back of the neck, with a razor that has been. . . I better stop there, I did not want to think about it either.

Oh, did I mention the passing traffic inches from us every so often, remember, I did say alley.

Ah, then he asks if I want a beard something (?). I decide what the heck, this is my only opportunity, so tell him with finger motions no shave, but to cut the beard. He does: OFF! Too late, and Grace is hooting by now, but does come over and asks he not cut the stash.

My after picture is attached. Notice the stash is not even? Notice I did NOT let him shave my face? We’ll try to get it done soon, and I’m hoping the beard grows back soon too. So Jennifer, who is now 36(?), has now seen me twice in her life without a beard. I do not think Beth, who is 26 (?), has ever seen me like this.

Back to the hotel, hope they let me leave China in two weeks even tho I do not now match my passport photo.

Life is an adventure, and should be lived that way. Sometimes.

Ceramics and No Water

2009-09-21T08:51:00.000-04:00

How do you describe it? No easy way really. So I’ll just try to tell what happened. But I have to say, today was like two different days, one not so good, one wonderful.

Last night when Grace and I got back to the room, I checked email. There were several emails from a friend of ours in Sarasota, Irene. She was trying to “warn” us that she had just heard that Xiamen, our next stop, had a “water stoppage”. Now, you might ask what that means. Well, it is hard to say, but what went through our minds was a city of 5-6 million inhanbitants without water for five days.

Not a pretty site from here. Besides, we were going to stay in an apartment, which means we would be fending on our own, and with limited language skills. Now, I am a pretty resourceful guy (I’ll pause here for the laughter) . . . . . . , and Grace is pretty good with Chinese in a pinch, BUT.

To make matters worse (aren’t they always?) it was Friday evening. On top of that, we had scheduled an out of town all day trip Saturday up to some remote dragon kilns and ancient pottery sites. Those are once in a lifetime opportunities for most, only available through another friend here in Jing de zhen, Baixu.

Sooooo

Emails back and forth to Irene. Emails to Vivien (a friend and government official in Xiamen asking for assistance, which of course was after she got off work) and some pretty heated talk between Grace and me as to what next. Driver was due at 7:30 am in the lobby Saturday.

We got up, I don’t think with a plan, but some apprehension, ate a good Chinese breakfast, and met our driver. First stop a ceramics market at a fantastic operation here called The Pottery Workshop. That is where Baixu works and it is something anyone with a potter background or interest should check out: www.potteryworkshop.com.cn. They offer a great international residency program for potters, and they are here from every continent I believe.

Baixu, I should say has gone way beyond what we should expect of a friend, and has assisted us immensely. We have already taken two days of her time, and maybe we now need her assistance again.

Grace and I shop around the booths set up by students and faculty, and Grace even finds a couple of things to buy. Surprise! We also run into Albert, who courteously picked us up at the airport and got us to the hotel by personal car. He is in the ceramics business here, and can fix you up if you want to import from here: anything ceramic, they make it all. He also happens to have one of the permanent shops on the square, with some outstanding works on display.

We locate Baixu, and I explain our situation. She assists again. She makes several calls for us, and we switch plane tickets (well, not exactly switch, we buy another ticket for Tuesday instead of tomorrow, Sunday), but she cannot get tickets for the connecting flight. Guess we will not be going to Xiamen Sunday. We also use her cell to talk to Vivien, who says yes, there is a water repair going on in Xiamen, but agrees to check out several hotels, call us (that means Baixu) back, and let us know.

10:00 am now, and Baixu is worried we will spoil our day’s plans. She and the driver talk again, and we leave with possibly a reduced itinerary, depending on time. My mind says this is day two, but still Saturday.

All the worry behind, we head for the mountains around Jing de zhen, and older ceramics sites. We visit an operating dragon kiln at Tian Bo that is maybe 40 meters + in length, wood fired. Not firing today, but must be a site to see when it is. Today, this kiln makes primarily the Chinese roofing tiles used throughout the area, and some large stoneware pots for storage of liquids and such. We meet the owner/operator, get a close up look, at every aspect, including the work areas where they make and dry what is fired. Baixu’s connections are invaluable.

Wowsers is all I can say. I have tried to explain several times to Baixu what the expression “A kid in a candy store” means. Think she understands, and that is where I am and have been for several days. As a ceramics collector, Jing de zhen is Heaven on Earth, incredible. I am walking around most of the time with my mouth open.

Leave there and head to Yaoli Village. Yaoli is a very old (even by Chinese standards, which put our US “old” to shame) mountain village, but on the main route for Kaolin clay, the stuff that makes real porcelain possible) so a wealthy place long ago. We visit a Ming Dynasty (that is about 1300-1600 AD) family home, walk around the twisted and cobbled streets, and we even cross a “bridge” over the river. More like four well, maybe six logs (6 inch diameter?) trimmed and supported every twenty feet by a cross piece under. Yes, it does “give” as you walk, but thankfully does not sway also. Grace is a trooper, but when I ask her to walk back out on it to take her picture, I have to duck. 

Then to the Yaoli Museum for the Cheng Clan. Another, even larger family home with even a school included. I have pictures, took enough that my batteries ran out today. I am surprised at the display here of revolutionary “stuff”, especially in this family home. These are the very people Mao and his forces were out to eradicate in the communist movement, the wealthy landlord class. But then I realize that these mountains were actually one of the revolution’s strongholds. Nanchang and its citizens, just west a small distance, has always been a hotbed and loyal follower of Mao’s teachings.

Back to the car, but not into it just yet, lunch first (1:00 pm) at the driver’s uncle’s best friend’s restaurant. Who would have guessed? Only me, Grace, and the driver eating, but good local food, and we sat at a porcelain table on porcelain stools. Blue and white, maybe five feet in diameter, pictures to follow I am sure. Life can’t get much better than this, except for the water and reservations troubles a world away right now.

Up, up a narrow road through an area that reminds both Grace and I of the Great Smoky Mountains in the eastern US. Get to a stopping point, and he suggests a walk to a waterfall up near the top. That is another maybe 700 feet to the top from where I stand, or rather sit. I tell him there is no way. I might add we are at a quite high elevation, the driver has asked several times coming up today if my or Grace’s hearts were OK. I think he is secretly happy, but he does not show it. Back down, most of the time out of gear, riding the brake. He does not have much experience driving in mountains I don’t think. You should use your transmission instead of your brakes when going downhill as that prevents the brakes from overheating and possibly failing. I don’t share that with Grace by the way.

At this point I might add that the driver does NOT speak English. Well, not at a conversational level. But Grace and he are definitely connecting, her asking what the word in Chinese is, and he trying out certain phrases on her. Also, we have seen three foreign tourists all day, and those while sitting eating lunch. I think that means we are off the beaten path? Yep, think so, thanks again Baixu.

Another stop, this at an ancient kiln site, kind of like a national park area. Gotta go for this, we are possibly not coming back. Grace agrees, but feet are, what should I say: bothering us? Does not quite say it right, more like screaming at us. Down the path, come across a “shop” where Kaolin is prepared and dried into bricks, the traditional way to ship it down to Jing de zhen. Another trek and we come across an open building where potters once worked. There are three wheels and several tourists are trying their luck. Grace declines at first, but her artist side kicks in and she starts potting or whatever potters call it. Several of the locals are impressed, she obviously knows what she is doing. The previous tourists do not, so they too are impressed. Of course Archie offers words of encouragement and is told to mind his own business. Archie can always find words of encouragement, but Grace has a different take on those words.

Love is grand, isn’t it? Yep, 43 years is it? Wowsers again.

We finish and start walking again. If you want to come to China, you need to start early walking, and when tired, walk some more. Especially if you live in a flat place like we do. The walking here is up and down, and the only thing that will prepare you are stairs or riding a bicycle.

Another of those narrow, plank bridges, this one may be narrower, but at least it is only across a 50 foot river rather than the 300 foot wide one we crossed earlier.

Up the trail, rest, up some more, then thankfully down a slight hill to three more dragon kilns. None of these are working, all abandoned around 1850 when the Taipings went on their rampage and destroyed Jing de zhen. Shards or broken ware of the Ming Dynasty abound, probably many from much earlier, I see ware on the ground that spans literally centuries. But a national park, so I do not try to pick any up or take anything.

Finally back to the car, and we are both bone tired, really. I say “Jing de zhen da judian”, in my best Chinese, and the driver laughs. He heads us towards the hotel, thank you.

Baixu has had the plane tickets delivered so we go by there and get them and talk to her a short bit. But we both feel exhausted and we have certainly taken up enough of her time. So back to the hotel, and hopefully a good night’s sleep. We have earned it, trust me. Tomorrow, Sunday will be a day of rest for us.

More emails to Vivien and Irene, and to the travel agent in Florida. Hope all works out in Xiamen, Jing de zhen has certainly been a treat.

Conservation

2009-09-21T08:50:00.001-04:00

We can learn much about economizing and use of available space from the Chinese. In a country were over a million people is a small town, they have had to be creative. Here are a few observations:

1. In the Suzhou New City Garden Hotel the escalators run only when approached.
2. At the toll booths on the “freeway” from Suzhou to Shanghai, two vehicles are served in each line. How? They’ve simply built a second toll booth behind the first.
3. Shanghai is preparing for an international expo in 2010. All tourists want to drive down The Bund. Already LOTS of traffic, so they are building a double-decker road! I would hope one level going each way, but that would not be very Chinese. Playing dodge cars seems to be a national sport.
4. Broadway Mansions, Shanghai—Electricity is conserved by having motion sensors in the secondary hallways of the hotel which only turn the lights on when someone is headed to a room down that hallway. (Lights by elevators stay on.)
5. Not sure if this is a safety issue or a conservation move, but the hotel elevators don’t go up without inserting a room key. I guess if you want to go to one of the restaurants or bars on the top floors, you have to have reservations. No just riding up to see the view.
6. This made me remember how the lights in shops are turned on in a cabinet when you show interest in a particular item. Why light the others?
7. Oh, yeah, and the lights in the hotel rooms don’t work until you enter and place your room key in a slot by the door. You take your room key with you when you leave; that way lights cannot be left on while you are out.

Thinking about this has put me in a quandary about something that happened at dinner last night. We treated three people: the young lady who has been our voluntary guide, the English teacher who hooked us up with her, and the young lady’s younger sister who is in the English teacher’s class. She ordered way too many dishes for us to eat. I think there were about eight platters plus a huge bowl of soup plus drinks and a crispy sweet thin bread for dessert. No rice as Chinese people seem to think that is an insult when served to visitors as that is poor people’s food.

I asked if Chinese people take home “doggie bags.” She said they don’t because food is so inexpensive here. I think we left at least as much as we ate. For the five of us the bill was about $25 USD which we think is cheap, but not so cheap if your income is less than a couple hundred per month for a good-paying job.

The retirees in SCC would blow their minds, wouldn’t they?

No Xiamen... What next?

2009-09-18T13:57:00.001-04:00

OK, I think the rule of thumb is to NOT write when excited or upset.

I am trying to follow that rule.

We are in Jing de zhen, and were headed to Xiamen on Sunday, but just got told via email from the US that water has been stopped in Xiamen Sept 18 to 22.

Soooooooooo,

What to do?

Let you know when we calm down and have a solution.

Maybe

Speaking Chinese

2009-09-17T09:50:00.002-04:00

We are traveling around southern China. Most people speak Catonese and/or their local dialect. Shanghainese is a language all its own. But most Chinese people, especially those who have frequent contact with travelers, understand and speak Mandarin as well.

This entry is more for me than for anyone else. I am attempting to document how much Mandarin I have remembered. I have actually said the following and have even been understood at times. lol Amazing what resurfaces years later when we need it. (I will confess to having reviewed our Chinese language books at home before coming and to often referring to my favorite little language book, ESSENTIAL CHINESE FOR TRAVELERS. But some of these words/phrases have just popped out when needed.)

Hello.
Hello. (Different when answering the phone.)
How are you?
Thank you.
You are welcome.
No problem.
Good-bye.
China. (Literally means “Middle Kingdom” as in “center of the universe”?)
America. (Literally means “Beautiful Country” which I think is nice.)
American.
Canada.
England.
Just want to look.
How much?
Too expensive!
Come down a little?
Beautiful.
Left.
Right.
Straight ahead.
Stop.
I don’t understand.
I understand. (Used MUCH less often.)
I don’t know.
Yesterday.
Today.
Tomorrow.
Correct.
Incorrect.
Yes or no?
Good.
Very good.
Not good.
Good or not good? (Do you agree or not?)
Where?
When?
This.
That.
Coca cola.
Seven Up.
Water. (For ordering bottled water)
Two cold Tsing Tao beers.
Dumplings.
Steamed bread.
Chicken.
Pork.
Chopsticks.
Have you eaten rice? (Colloquial for hello.)
I am very full.
Waiter.
Waitress.
Check or bill.
Numbers 0-10
With some thought eleven through ninety-nine as these are formed by combining 0-10.
Hundred.
Thousand.
Happy birthday to you.

When told my Chinese is very good, I answer as a Chinese person would: “Not good, but thank you.”

Pronouns: Years ago Archie’s mom told us to remember Juanita. How would a Spanish name help with Chinese pronouns? Wo = I, ni = you, ta = he, she, it (all genders); add “men” to each to pluralize: women = we, nimen = you plural, tamen = they.

My all-time favorite Chinese expression is “mamahuhu.” Literally it means “horse horse tiger tiger.” This is comparable to our “six of one; half dozen of the other” or “OK, but not great.” When Lili, our Suzhou guide trainee, asked me if I had enjoyed the flight from San Francisco to Shanghai, I said, “Mamahuhu,” and she laughed out loud.

Dong Tai Lu - Antique Street

2009-09-17T09:50:00.001-04:00

The day of the week is not the only thing you loose track of here. Directions, time, water intake and many others. A visit to China can be pleasurable and relaxing, but it is best to prepare and approach it as an adventure, with unknowns and excitement to follow. You will enjoy your experience much more that way.

Grace and I are both up early today, our first full day in Shanghai. Too early. We choose not to have breakfast at the hotel, that cost another $20/person daily. $40.00 per day added to the room rate, is steep. And I do not see a buffet like the one in Suzhou anywhere. So we head out, but in the lobby change plans and directions, it is only 7:30 but we are itching to go. We head to Xin tian di, and area I am very fond of. When living here in 2000-01, it was just being finished, and when Grace came to visit, we discussed living in one of the apartments upstairs. The 2-4 block area is in downtown Shanghai, designed as old Shanghai buildings, but with much wider walking areas and indoor plumbing. There is lots of upscale shopping and quite a few bars and restaurants for the rising middle class and the expat community. Found both a Starbucks and Paul’s (a French bakery) that served coffee and pastries. But we walked a good bit before we settled, and are already tired.

9:30 we head for Dong Tai Lu, a wonderful antique street in an older neighborhood close by. We start at the wrong end and spend most of the morning going through donxi shops. Dongxi is the Chinese word for “stuff” and most of it was exactly that, just stuff and more stuff. Very little in the way of quality antiques or memorabilia is here. I might add, we see very few tourists either.

It is 1:00 pm before we find what I have been looking for, Hong Ru Xuan, Mr Liu’s antique shop. It is still there, although the young lady inside, too busy watching a soap opera to give us any attention, tells us that Mr. Liu is taking a nap, and cannot be disturbed. Mr. Liu serves on the provincial museum as an authority, and I managed to learn a good bit about Chinese porcelain and ceramics from him while living here. Of course, I also used to joke that I was spending enough $$ there to put his son through a very good college. Not Harvard maybe, but certainly a good one.

I am disappointed in what I see, little in the way that would add to my collection or interests, but leave my card and we write on it the hotel and our room number just in case. I tell Grace we might come back, as the good stuff is always under the counter. It is not that the good stuff is illegal or anything, it is just that the Chinese are not going to present their best wares first. You have to have patience, knowledge, and manners before they will extend the priviledge of sharing with you their special wares. Thus one more reason to bargain, and allow it to drag out over time.

But not today. The young lady finally decides to turn off the TV/computer (maybe it was a CD?) and offer us a glass of water. No tea mind you, just heated water. After having the water and looking at a couple of not so special pieces, we leave. She has probably ruined his chances this time, but a phone call this evening might just get me back tomorrow. I also stop at Shirley’s Embroidery, and if you like such it is a must see place. Shirley speaks perfect English, and specializes in Kingfisher Blue ladies jewelry, embroidery, and headdresses. The kingfisher jewelry is made with sterling silver and beautiful kingfisher feathers that were expensive enough only the ultra wealthy or imperial families could afford them. Absolutely exquisite stuff, a little pricey, but I am sure well worth it. She is three doors up from Mr. Liu, and I tell her that if I do not spend all my money with him tomorrow I may be back to her shop. Her offerings are museum quality, and she knows her stuff. She does have a shop on Ebay, www.stores.ebay.com/chinaemboidery, check her out and tell her I recommended her. I do not think the jewelry is offered online, her card just says Qing Dynasty Embroidery, ancestor paintings and cigarette posters. But ask.

We finally get to the end and can hail a taxi, and head to the Portman Ritz Carlton Hotel. No, not to stay there, but there is a great restaurant just down from there that serves good inexpensive food, the Always Café and a favorite hangout for expats. At least it did 8 years ago.

We decide while at the Portman to try and get some more cash, and end up spending a good amount of time at HSBC. Get it, but it is now after 2:30, we are hungry, so we eat at: ready? Wait fro it: yep, California Pizza Kitchen. Welcome to the new China. We share a pizza, all the way, and two wonderfully cold Cokes. They even refill the Cokes with more extra cold, and I think we each drink four glasses. That is more Coke than I have had in years.

Now totally exhausted, much later than we had planned, neither of us is up to more walking, we get a cab and head to Broadway Mansions. In the room, both of us absolutely crash due to exhaustion.

I wake at 7:30 pm, Grace cannot get up, still too tired, and she sleeps the night through.

I try and get the computer on the Internet, but fail. Turns out the hotel wants 0.8 RMB per minute, or 80 RMB per day for access. At $1.00 to 6.80 RMB that works out to $0.15 per minute, or almost $12.00 per day. No thanks. I lived here, and can tell you that is pure highway robbery. They won’t have many business class customers at that rate.

So we will wait to get these posts done when and if we get a connection, either at a Wi-Fi hotspot, or the next hotel.

Boy what excitement tomorrow? If we can keep our eyes open. No call from Mr. Liu, bummer.

M on the Bund

2009-09-17T09:49:00.001-04:00

Day?

You loose track of time and place here.

Got up in Suzhou and spent some time at the Humble Administrator’s Garden. Back to the New City Garden Hotel, and the driver showed up right at 2:00, the appointed time. So we were off to Shanghai by minivan, just the two of us plus of course the driver. He drove very well and there is now what we would call a freeway or interstate all the way from Suzhou to Shanghai. Maybe four lanes each side, with controlled access exits and entries. Quite a bit of traffic on the road, and a lot of it is personal cars. Of course there are also the older trucks, laden with goods, probably the same trucks I saw in the early 80’s.

Factories, industrial areas, residential high-rise apartments everywhere, for mile after mile after mile, but little, if any agriculture. The land here is flat, a river delta, and you can see a long way except for the buildings. The farms have been overwhelmed. Then some older farm buildings, but most are deserted or appear to be so. Guess the farmers have given up and joined the factory labor force. You can’t blame the farmers, Chinese farming is back breaking work, and young people seem to want the city life. But the houses I am talking about are large, two and three stories, probably in the range of 4,000 sq ft. Actually, when Deng Xiao Peng’s reforms began, the farmers (the ones close to cities) where the ones who initially gained the most. Farmers outside of major cities were able to grow vegetables and transport them into the metropolitan areas and sell what had been neglected in the previous planned economy; at a nice price, and they kept the money, a novel idea here at the time. Maybe they have learned they could make even more money selling the land?

Capitalism? Well they don’t use that term, they refer to their economic system as socialism with Chinese characteristics.

Once in Shanghai I noticed signs that said Hongqiao, and planes in landing patterns indicating they were ready to land there. Shanghai has two airports; I learned that the hard way. Hongqiao, the old airport in the Hongqiao area is now the airport for domestic flights; the Pudong airport is for international. While living here in 2000, I lived and worked in the Hongqiao area. I once went to the Hongqiao airport to fly home. Wrong place, so had to pay a taxi to rush me all the way to Pudong to make my flight. Not fun, but I made it. At that time, although a big mistake, it was forgivable since the Pudong airport was new, and besides, just four years before I had flown into Hongqiao from Hong Kong. Anyway, figuring I was in my old neighborhood and close to my previous school, I looked around for familiar sights.

None.

The Hongqiao area is larger than I realized, and on the drive in to our new hotel I did not recognize anything. Guess when you are in a city of 18 million you should expect to get confused and even lost after being gone eight years?

The driver had some challenges with street directions, but finally got to what is today called Broadway Mansions, our hotel. Chinese call it “Shanghai da sha”; it used to be called Shanghai Mansions, so maybe the “da sha” means that. Hotel is “lu guan”, or is it “ba guan”? so that is not it, but with my limited Chinese language skills I have not a clue, although have heard that term before. This hotel is on the north end of the Bund, Shanghai’s old waterfront, and right across Suzhou Creek. Suzhou Creek if you have read about old Shanghai was a very poor and seedy area crowded with boat people. They are gone today. The hotel was built in 1934, and has seen quite some days. They refurbished it several years ago, and I have stayed here before, but it is now much improved. We are here for the history, there are certainly more modern and convenient locations today.

Got checked in, they had our Travelocity reservation. Rested a bit, we had a three +/- hour drive. Then off to M on the Bund: reservations at 8:00 pm, made from Tampa, Florida. M is on the top floor of one of the old Bund buildings, and a very nice western style restaurant. I know, why western when in China? Grace and I ate there the first time ten years ago in 1999, the year they opened, and can tell you there were not many customers then. The owner, Christine took a gamble, and established the first nice western restaurant in Shanghai after the opening up to the west. We had a breakfast brunch with son Sturdy and daughter Beth then, have been back for our 35th (?) wedding anniversary and maybe five other occasions over the years. Still a very nice place for a special dinner, and we are both glad it is thriving. At least that was the impression we got. Both of us had bouillabaisse, then a dessert of cheesecake and coffee. Whole pot of coffee was brought to the table, which is a rarity here.

The view is spectacular. From our seats at the front window you face Pudong, which 25 years ago basically was still rice patties and fishing communities, cut off from Shanghai except by boat. Today Pudong represents China’s dream for the future: skyscrapers, banking giants, industrial might, and everything modern with serious urban planning and dramatic architectural structures. Two of the larger skyscrapers showed videos: screen size? How about 50 stories tall by maybe 300 feet wide? Incredible, in so many ways.

The progress this country and her people are making are incredible, they completely overwhelm. You must see it to believe, and you must have someone with you who has some history and perspective of the changes. Not in a million years could I or would I have believed the Chinese could even come close to what they have done in the time frame they have had. It is truly a modern marvel, one of the great achievements in the history of mankind, and important for all to understand that they have just begun. China has no plans to put on the brakes; they are full steam ahead on many levels.

Left M and walked along the Bund a couple of blocks. Disappointing as they have large barriers (maybe 30 feet tall) erected so we could see nothing of the water. (Not to mention obnoxious street hawkers plying their “lasers”, and for the first time in Shanghai, I was offered a “Rolex”.) Another construction project, they are everywhere. The whole city is trying to get ready for World Expo 2010, what we would call a World’s Fair. Got to a small side street where we could hail a taxi, they are not allowed to stop on the bund, and came back to the hotel. I wanted to go over to the Astor House, the hotel next door, but Grace was too worn out. When we got to the room she pointed out that it was 10:30, and suggested we get some sleep. Good idea, I had no clue as to how late it had gotten.

Two full days here, then off the Jing dezhen Thursday early.

Oh, and yes, I do write a lot.

Day Two: Guided Tours of Suzhou

2009-09-17T08:50:00.000-04:00

Our local guide, Sonia—Chinese name is Yang Yang which we prefer—and our driver Mr. Dong pick us up at Suzhou New City Garden Hotel. Right on time, I might add. Lili, the trainee guide, got caught in traffic caused by an accident and caught up with us.

First stop is Lingering Garden. Here is a link to some photos and a description, but use your BACK button if you look now or you will lose the blog.

http://www.travelchinaguide.com/picture/jiangsu/suzhou/garden_lingering_in/

We have taken photos, but won’t ask Beth to upload them for us at this time. We have not been able to access Blogger.com from China. It is a bit of a mystery as Wordpress.com, another popular blogging site, is easily accessible. Rather than driving Beth crazy with uploading for us, I will set up a Wordpress site if Blogger.com stays blocked in Shanghai.

The sites were quite beautiful in Lingering Garden. Many different type windows through which were viewed sculptures and plantings designed to look like paintings. Old style architecture and furniture. Many rooms with Ming style furniture—beautiful. Our guide explained where the females would be hidden so that they could view guests, but not be seen.

A huge area had Chinese versions of bonsai which our guide said is much larger and is designed in four different styles. We happened upon a Chinese opera that was just beginning. It seems that audiences have become quieter and more attentive. A darling little girl kept going up to the stage’s edge and was imitating one of the performers. That would have been perfectly acceptable when we lived here. But one of the musicians even got up, went over to the mother and told her to have her child sit down.

Most of the tourists were Chinese including many children as it was Saturday. I often say, “Ni Hao” to small children and they say “hello” in return. The parents and grandparents laugh and encourage them, proud that they “know English.” And I have found that a smile is universal. Chinese have no compunctions about staring, often with jaws dropping as they check us out head to toe. But a smile and “Ni Hao” seems to break the trance and elicits a smile.

We were then taken to a silk factory. We’ve been before but this one was more of a tourist attraction followed by LOTS of opportunities to buy silk duvets, duvet covers, and clothing. This was all fine except lunch. We were taken to the “Western” section of the tourist restaurant and our guides went to the Chinese area. Had we known in time, we would have insisted on going to Chinese restaurant. We would much prefer to eat good Chinese food than their version of Western food.

After lunch our driver dropped Yang Yang and us off on a street through a reclamation area. The homes are the old style white walls with black tile roofs with lots of canals and bridges. There is little to do there as yet other than dodge getting hit by bicycles and motorbikes that whiz through. Hard to look around while playing a motorized version of dodge ball.

And the walk was LONG!!! Followed by several city blocks of stores before getting to the parking area for the van. Supposedly, parking was “forbidden” in the reclamation area. We suspect it was more a case of you might buy something during the walk. Thank goodness Archie and I have both been walking at home in preparation for this trip. But we really have not built up to the distance covered when you add Lingering Gardens to the reclamation area. I estimate about six or seven miles altogether. So we headed from there to the hotel for naptime. The guides picked us up about 6:15 pm to drive us to a Chinese restaurant for a typical Suzhou dinner. We were the only Westerners. The manager was so happy to have us that he did not allow us to pay for the Qingdao beer we ordered.

Emergency brake to stop

2009-09-14T08:51:00.000-04:00

We’re both up at 3:00, that is am, so we are not over the jetlag yet. Grace manages to go back to sleep, my mind is racing, so I am up the rest of the night.

Downstairs for breakfast at that terrific buffet at 6:30. I’m reconsidering the 250 linear feet, thinking it is closer to 350 linear feet. Coffee is great, still. But have to say we had a cup after dinner last night and maybe they reheat it for evening customers. Last night’s cup was not so good. The dinner price kind of surprised us. Bill was about $50.00 USD for the buffet plus “bing da Qingdao pejiu” or cold Tsingtao beer and coffee. That was for both of us. But we were tired to the bone after all that walking yesterday, and happy to be able to eat at the hotel instead of going out.

Oh, and Grace tells me it is spelled Masseman Curry, not what she says I wrote: “mossy man curry.” That was a yesterday post. Sometimes she just shakes her head at what I write and say. At least I think I put a question mark after it to indicate I was unsure of the spelling. I hope.

Checkout is 2:00 pm and we are headed to Shanghai then. So we are off to the Humble Administrator’s Garden, one of the prime tourist spots in China and one of the many UN Cultural Heritage sites. Taxi ride is uneventful, although I might point out that one of the taxis yesterday used the emergency brake to stop each time. No, I did not tell Grace then, but did this morning when this one actually used the foot pedal. She said she appreciated the wait time on that one.

You should not stay in the New City area if going to all these ancient tourist sites. They are on the other side of town, a long drive. But hey, taxis are half the fun. Most staying here are business types searching for that China opportunity.

The garden is very nice, lots of water, water lilies, camellias, pavilions and rockery. The garden is very large, surprisingly large, I think the brochure says 15 acres. As we walk up, a wanna be guide tells us outside that it is like a maze inside and we need his services. But inside we find there are excellent signs with maps posted in Chinese and English. After we get back to the hotel I find we unknowingly have a map on the back of each ticket. Ticket price is 70 RMB per person. That was unheard of when we lived here before, prices have certainly climbed significantly. I cannot remember any ticket ever costing more than about 10 RMB then, about $1.25 USD or so. 70 RMB today is better than $10.00 USD so prices have certainly escalated.

Walked and walked again: but worth it. And lots of pictures, but think clicking on this link will do just the same, maybe better: photos. This is a page put up by someone (David) who went there, and is very good. Although we did not see his young Chinese friend while there. Thanks for the pictures, David.

On our exit I am surprised at how few souvenirs are available. Nothing of high value or price is on offer, just what I would call trinkets. But I also notice that there are no tourist groups around, and no bus parking lot. So maybe we have exited a local exit and not the main tourist exit. Everywhere else we have been here in Suzhou there have been very expensive offerings, although maybe not high quality.

No taxis around when we exited, and have to admit there was a bit of worry. But found one, an empty one and are now safely back at the hotel and resting before the 2-3 hour drive into Shanghai. Bit of confusion when the driver tried to explain (in Chinese of course) that he was taking a special route back to the hotel, through a tunnel. I told him OK, and even told Grace although I have never heard the word for tunnel in Chinese and would not be able to repeat what he said. Not sure if it is body language or a basic understanding, but if you listen, sometimes it is surprising what you hear. For us it is simple, the rule in China is always carry a hotel business card and use it to get “home.” No ruby red slippers needed here, the Chinese people are friendly and try very hard to be courteous.

Pictures from Suzhuo

2009-09-14T08:27:00.000-04:00

Suzhuo style

End of line

Entrance to ?

Arhcie's bridge

Old Uncle

Day three in China. Or is that day 2 ½?

2009-09-13T17:33:00.000-04:00

Day three in China. Or is that day 2 ½?

Got up pretty early and headed for the hotel café for breakfast. Can’t resist that buffet, and they have wonderful coffee. Coffee is a luxury in China, and good coffee is a godsend. Three cups later, in addition to two plates of Chinese plus Western food I am ready to go. Grace is not quite as charged up as I am. So I take a walk “around the block”. Now that was a big block!

Out the front door and down Shishan Lu (road). This is called the New City area, and they must be setting it up to be the financial center. Lots of very large buildings (10, 40 +/- stories) up and running, plus another 15 +/- under construction. Almost every one is a bank or “securities” office on the ground floor. No shops, and of course, at 8:00 am on Sunday morning, nothing but construction going on.

Left turn at first major light, before crossing traffic. That road I did not cross is maybe 10 lanes wide at that intersection, and it is way too early for Archie to be navigating traffic at this date and time. There may not be much traffic right now, but that just means there are more lanes to drive in. No, they have not mastered the art of staying in one lane here; any open lane is fair game, unless of course, the police are close by and watching.

Down the street and past a number of large residential construction sites. All multi story, 25 plus I would say, most multiple buildings too. Many of the apartments appear to still be vacant, but construction continues. The finished ones look strange and quiet. Over a bridge (remember, Suzhou is one of the cities called the Venice of the East), past a closed factory, then another residential complex going up. This one is International Residences, appears to be maybe 15 buildings, each maybe 25 stories, each building holding maybe 500 apartments. That runs to 7,500 apartments total according to my quick math. Wowsers! One of our guides yesterday told us construction runs about 100 US$ per square foot here for new high end apartments. Another closed factory.

Turn left again at another major intersection. Across the street I stop and watch as the “Crystal Romance Club” gets warmed up. Maybe 100 employees lined up military style formation with the boss out front leading a pep talk. No calisthenics, just formation and talk. Now that I think of it, no Tai Chi, no warming exercises anywhere. Guess I am in the newer part of town (hence the name, duh!) and not many retirees, mostly younger crowd. Another closed factory in the middle of that block.

Economy in China is being spurred on by massive federal spending just as in the US. Spending is mostly on infrastructure. There has been a lot written about the displacement of millions of Chinese migrant workers, the ones that worked in just such factories due to the worldwide economic slowdown. Try a search for how much the Shanghai Municipal government is spending on the World Expo next year and you will understand that China is serious. I’m afraid to quote the number from memory because those sized numbers boggle my brain.

More International Residences, multiple entries, each with a gate and security guard on duty. Pass some construction workers apparently waiting for the opportunity to work. Each has a three wheeler with a wagon bed in back. Several motorized, several peddle power.

Sun is now out, and boy it gets hot fast. I am almost immediately sweating just from walking.

Left again, there is a large roundabout in front of me with a monument in the center, and several nice restaurants appear to be getting ready to open. But still almost no traffic, very quiet. Back by another entry to International Residences, then back across the canal, another closed factory. I see the hotel on the left, but have to walk quite a way because the road is elevated, and no easy access to the hotel property. The new wing of the hotel is one of those multi story buildings I mentioned earlier, probably 45 stories up. We happen to be in the older wing, but very nice.

I’m hot, tired, and it is just 9:00 am. Up to the room to rest and cool down. Grace is working on the computer, but we are both tired so decide to just chill before venturing out.

Noonish, we decide enough of this rest and head out. Go to a “cultural Relics store” but find little we can use or want. Beautiful stuff mind you, but we have enough stuff, we think. Down a side street, there seems to be more happening down here. Shopping district and I am not sure if someone turned a switch or what, but there are people everywhere here. We wander along just doing some observing but it is getting close to lunchtime. We decide to try an “Old Uncle” outlet, but notice there are two Kentucky Frieds on the street. Old Uncle to be one of China’s version of a McD’s, with fast service and meals instead of plates. Oops, no English, and no numbers to order, although the pictures look great. Hostess helps, then a young man at the counter comes over. Seems the young lady taking orders did not want to handle our toneless Chinese. He assists and we get a tray and head upstairs. Busy place upstairs, but we locate a table. Grace has the Mosseman (sp?) Curry offering, I have ?????. That means I order but have not a clue, and after getting have less of a clue. But both are good, and they come with a custard dish also. Grace thinks she sees “little things with eyes” in the custard, I pretend I don’t see what she sees. No fishy taste.

Taxi to Tiger Hill, one of Suzhou’s main tourist spots. It is Sunday and everyone is out and about, so we stop before entering and instead take a canal boat ride. The pictures are from that ride. Boatman says the ride is 7 miles, seems more like 0.7, or maybe a very short 7 km, but very nice and peaceful. Lots of photo ops, but mostly the backs of houses. And yes, even a garbage collecting boat is on duty, cleaning up any floating debris that might bother tourists or clog motors, etc. A number of very cool bridges, most are arched and only support pedestrian traffic.

Out at the end of the ride, and stumble upon another of Suzhou’s spots, Shan Tang Street, a lovely street in the old style. Lots of shops, lots of very expensive art and artifacts, but nothing we want. Lots more walking, and then back to a main street and a taxi to the hotel.

More rest. We decide we are NOT over the airline part of the trip yet. A long nap for both of us, and then dinner in the hotel instead of going out. This was the rest and recuperate day fro us, hope we have not overdone it. But hard to stay inside and rest when China beckons.

It is now 9:40 and we are back in the room, already tired but looking forward to the drive back to Shanghai tomorrow afternoon, in daylight this time.

Good day, more to follow.

Travel and Green Goose Feet

2009-09-12T15:46:00.000-04:00

Ah, China. We’re back, and much has changed, but much is still the same.

There is no easy way to get here. 12:00 +/- hours by air from San Francisco. It is much longer from the east coast, although that is usually via a polar route. Then when we arrived we were greeted by out first set of guides and transported to Suzhou, “The Venice of the East”, although several places share that name. Suzhou is a beautiful older city with a tremendous amount of history, and some incredible old style gardens.

We are staying at the New City Garden Hotel in the New City area of Suzhou. Suzhou is now a city of 6 million, what in China is considered a medium sized town.

There were some challenges getting here. Grace and I only had to get our Visas Wednesday in San Francisco; that was the only must do that entire day. We had dropped off the applications the Thursday before. Needless to say, we thought we had plenty of time, but got to the Consulate office at 3:08, and sure enough, they closed at 3:00. Soo . . . . .

Thursday morning bright and early we headed back to San Francisco, think it was 7:00 am. Got into some traffic but got there about 8:40, so Grace waited in line with others for the doors to open. They did promptly at 9:00 and we got inside. Some confusion caused by me because I thought I knew which line to stand in, and was wrong. Just before getting to the window son Sturdy called and asked me to meet him outside: I did. And wouldn’t you know it, that was exactly when Grace was told we needed the receipt we had been given when applying. No she did not have it, and no she could not find me. And no, I did not have it either, and honestly do not remember them giving us one, although I am sure they did.

To make it short, we got back inside, filled out additional paperwork, got the Visas, and started for the airport. Sturdy meanwhile had to go on to work, but was nice enough to have dropped off a couple of cups of coffee, a sandwich, and a nice loaf of San Francisco Sourdough bread. Thanks Sturdy, but sorry not to give you a hug and a good bye. That loaf came in handy on the flight, and as always San Francisco bread is one of my favorites.

Airport check-in was smooth, even after some serious challenges getting checked in online. I was about to swear off ever flying United again. Boarding went smooth, flight left about 30 minutes late, radar glitch as explained by the captain. And yes, that did cause some concern after all we had been through the previous several days.

Nice flight, although sitting in chair for 12 hours is never “fun”. Arrived Shanghai at 5:40 pm China time, about 3:40 am our body time. Met up with the guide, and they transported us to our hotel in Suzhou (another 3 +/- hours). So basically except for napping, we had been up for 24 hours. I’m getting too old for that. Very nice hotel, and this afternoon, we even were told we had “free” Internet access. Now, for those of you who have traveled to China previously, you know “free” is a dangerous term. We’ll see. Breakfast buffet, wow, what a buffet! Think Grace took some pictures this morning and I’ll get here to put them up. If you added up the front footage of the buffet, I think it would easily have run 250 feet. Yes, I said 250 feet, and I honestly think I am being conservative. Western, Chinese, Japanese, dessert, salad, fruit, bread, and of course several areas of unknown. Ever seem GREEN goose feet at breakfast? I did today, and can assure you I only looked once and moved on.

The Shanghai International airport is a work of art, incredible. You have to see it. The new Gatwick outside London is based on it I am sure.

Met the guide at 9:30 (and except for the too cold in our room, we did get a decent night’s sleep), they let us sleep in. We have been walking around Suzhou all day now and hope to write about today after dinner. Tired, bone tired, but hey, this is China, and not a minute to spare.

Gotta run.

In control, NOT

2009-09-09T13:09:00.000-04:00

Some think we are in control. Sometimes I guess we are, other times, well.

We are in Los Altos, the San Francisco area, down right next to Stanford University. My youngest brother and sister-in-law live here. Very nice area, and the weather has been spectacular. Great week to be here on vacation.

Tuesday evening I tried to double check on our flight reservations. Used to be you check in 72 hours before an international flight. (Turns out now it is 24 hours, but I tried anyway.) Went to the United Airlines website OK, put in our frequent flier information, and it tells me “No itinerary found for this person.” Whoa! OK, maybe I’ll try another tactic. I’ll try the reservation number. “No itinerary found for this number.” Wait a minute!

I try again, both ways, frequent flyer number and the printed reservations number, but both come back as nothing. Two days before departure, and I am somewhat concerned. So I call United. Young girl answers and in her best street talk (what ever happened to business etiquette?) informs me that I should check in online. Yep, I tell her, I know that, but online tells me I have no reservations, and I need to get to the bottom of this. She digs some into her computer files, and comes back on the phone and tells me that someone has deleted those reservations! WHAT? OH ****! Who? She says she cannot tell me that, but asks who I bought the tickets through. Even tells me we were flying from SF to Shanghai and the date. Nice of her, except for the “were” part. I tell her the agent’s name and she verifies they did make reservations, but someone has since deleted them.

I call the agent, of course it is after hours in Florida, but I leave a message on her phone. No response, but about 7:00 California time I decide to also send an email to her. 8:00 or so California time my cell rings but I am at dinner, so do not answer.

Later back at my brother and sister’s house I check messages and the agent tells me she has gone in under reservation number such and such and the reservations are there and all is well. Turns out to be a different reservation number. Funny? No, but I’ll try online check-in later today, Wednesday, and see what happens. That is, before I call the agent. And ask why we have no reservations under our FF # either?

Control, no. It is just a mirage.

Hey, at least this happened here where I speak the language. Just wait till next week. Whoppee!

STAYCATION - Chinatown/San Francisco

2009-09-08T18:20:00.000-04:00

If you can't make it to China, you can experience a lot of the sights and sounds by visiting Chinatown in San Francisco. Here are photos to give you the idea. Double-click on any photo to enlarge it.

Getting Our Visas

2009-09-04T09:06:00.000-04:00

Wow, have things changed! I remember when we got visas here in San Francisco years ago. I don't know about Archie, but I felt very uncomfortable. The wait was long and the clerk was quite rude.

Now there is a special new office at the Chinese Consulate on Geary for getting visas. It is clean and highly efficient. Operates like our driver's license office at home. You get a number and can immediately fill out a form. The board lights up with your ticket number and the number of the window to go to. A pleasant female voice announces this information as well.

There is even a station for having passport photos made on the spot!

We were in and out in less than a half hour.

We will pick up our visas in four business days. For additional fees you can get one in two days or even one day.

About half the people there were Westerners who seemed to be going as tourists. The Chinese are not slow studies. Having the Olympics has definitely made them a top tourism destination and they have the visa process under control.

FRIENDLY REMINDER: CHECK THE EXPIRATION DATE ON YOUR PASSPORT! I didn't until about a month ago. We went to teach in Qingdao ten years ago. Archie has been back to China, but I have not. My passport was expiring so had to pay extra to expedite the process.

Grace

San Francisco

2009-09-03T21:52:00.000-04:00

Arrived late last night and found our way to the hotel. Forgot which rental car co. I had made reservations with, and that proved to be a challenge, but solved at last.

Today met with old friends for breakfast, then a walking tour of the Chinatown neighborhood around the hotel. Out our window is Coit Tower. Have to go take a look at the new "birdman" of SF, the one that feeds the wild parrots at Coit. May get to that Friday before the convention gets cranked up.

Oh, parking is about $30/day at the hotel. That is a surprise. Asked around, and that seems to be the prevailing rate. Wow, city living is expensive.

Met up with our son, Sturdy for a late lunch and then to his house. Little Sturdy and Calan were home with their mom Kathy, so had a nice visit before Emerson came home from school. First grader, big deal.

Back at the hotel and trying to get a little rest. Grace was up 24 hours yesterday, and I have to admit both of us are tired.

Off and Running!

2009-09-02T06:10:00.000-04:00

We leave for San Francisco today. We'll attend the US-China Peoples Friendship National Conference this weekend. (Go to http://uscpfa.org/.) And get our visas for the China trip.

But here are the BEST reasons for going to San Francisco!
This photo taken by our daughter-in-law is one of my very favorites!

Grace

Going Where?

2009-08-28T13:24:00.000-04:00

SFO to SHA on Sept 10: Of course, we lose a day, but worth it. Transfer to Suzhou on arrival and there till 14th, Monday. Have reservations at M on the Bund that night. Grace, Sturdy, Beth and I were one of their first customers back in 1999. Had an incredible Sunday brunch then on the patio if I remember right. On top of a building on The Bund, looking over the river as lights of Shanghai come up.

Fly from Shanghai to Jing de Zhen on Thursday, 17th. Jing de Zhen is the world capital for porcelain. I collect, so should be the highlight of my trip. Wonder what I can buy there?

Sunday we fly through Shenzhen to Xiamen and have a week there, staying in an apartment instead of a hotel. We'll fill you in on the conveniences--sounds very modern and upscale.

Sept 25 to Hong Kong and a stamp auction there.

HK to SFO on the 29th.

More to come I am sure.

Archie

Returning to China

2009-08-28T12:32:00.000-04:00

In 1999 we went to Qingdao, China, to teach in an international school—Archie, Grace, and Beth who was 16 at the time. Archie taught in Shanghai the following year. Although Archie and Beth have both returned, this will be the first time for Grace to set foot in China again since that time.
We hope that our friends and family will follow along with us on this return to China trip. We will post our itinerary soon. Even though we’re leaving home on September 2, we will actually leave for China from San Francisco on September 10.

We’re not sure how often we will be able to post, but Internet access is available in many places in China now. Of our five destinations we are sure that we’ll be able to access from Shanghai, Hong Kong, and most likely Xiamen. We have two side trips planned: Jing de Zhen and Suzhou.

Only time will tell whether we will be able to add to the blog from those locations or not.
So stay tuned. We hope you find our adventures interesting and entertaining. And who knows—you may want to join us in the future.

Grace